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ROCKTOWN

Climbing Gym

(Four Zero Five) Bouldering Series

Event 4 - THE FINALS - April 10, 2010

 

This was the final event in our Four Zero Five Bouldering Series and the one that determined who would receive cash prizes. The top five point placers advanced to this finals round of competition and the points were cleared for the final competition. The top three finishers in the finals earned cash prizes ranging from $4 - $170 (based on number of competitors in each category).

 

The problems proved to be challenging for the competitors but the all but one problem was climbed - so they were just difficult enough. We had one tie in the Female Open division for third place. Rather than have a tie-breaker or climb-off the two ladies agreed to simply split the cash prize - which was cool.

 

In the Boys and Girls Youth categories there were clear winners - as Nicholas Strong and Emily Cole continuously dominated each of the qualifying competitions as well as the finals to take home the wins.

 

The five finalists in the men's category were placed very closely in terms of scores. In some instances it came down to a difference in number of attempts on a single problem, that divided the place-holders. Unfortunately, the head score-tallier (Aaron), after all his hard work, managed to screw-up the addition and mis-announce the winners in this category. After some re-evaluation and double-checking the scorecards and math we managed to straighten things out and get the cash to the right people (thanks J.T.).

 

I'd like to thank everyone for participating in each of the four events. It was a lot of work to throw this series together but in the end it was worthwhile because everyone had fun and seemed to enjoy the boulder problems.

 

Overall, what we've found is that we have some very strong boulderers in Oklahoma and a great group of people advancing our sport.

 

 

WINNERS

 

Male Open

1. Duke Goulden

2. Thomas Gardner

3. Adam Stackable

 

Female Open

1. Vanessa Sherk

2. Anna Holdridge

3. Natasha Sim & Cassidy Keifer

 

Male Youth

1. Nicholas Strong

2. Colin Bost

3. Jacob Edgmon

 

Female Youth

1. Emily Cole

2. Elizabeth Turner


 

Click here for Event 3 highlights and placings

Click here for Event 2 highlights and placings

Click here for Event 1 highlights and placings

 

Click here for complete scores

 

About

The (Four Zero Five) Bouldering Series is designed as a friendly and fun local bouldering competition series that takes place at Rocktown on select Saturday nights after close.

 

This is your chance to enjoy some exclusive new boulder problems, climb with others, and compete in a bouldering competition with a laid-back atmosphere.

 

We'll set anywhere from 5-10 problems for competitors to try. The problems may only exist for the competition. Points are accumulated by completing a boulder problem. The most points wins for that event.

 

There will be four events total (one per month). Climbers will accumulate points for the first three qualifier events. Top 5 point-value finishers from each category move on to the fourth and final competition. Climbers can participate in as many or as few competitions as they wish but only the top five finishers in each category will qualify for the fourth and final competition and the chance to win CASH prizes (see Prizes section below).

 

Dates/Times

Event 1: Saturday, February 6, 8:00-9:30 pm - COMPLETE! - Click here for Event 1 highlights and placings.

Event 2: Saturday, February 20, 8:00-9:30 pm - COMPLETE! - Click here for Event 2 highlights and placings.

Event 3: Saturday, March 6, 8:00-9:30 pm - COMPLETE! - Click here for Event 3 highlights and placings.

Event 4: FINALS - Saturday, APRIL 10, 8:00 pm

 

Fees (the cheapest competition you'll find!)

Only $10 per event!!! (40% goes to prize pot in your category)

Spectators (general admission): $2

T-Shirt for Series: $15

 

Format (keepin' it real)

This will be an open format (“redpoint format”), meaning you get multiple attempts. No flash points for getting the problem on the first try. Number of falls are not counted. Points are scored when a problem is completed by controlling the final hold. Honor system for scoring. All problems will be marked hands, marked feet. Start in boxed hold and finish at boxed hold (or boxed area at top of wall). One hand starts and non-static starts are game. Attempt begins when the climber’s body leaves the ground. There may be some crazy (unusual) problems with specific rules so don't hold us to these.

 

Scoring (we're keeping it simple)

One star route: 10 points

Two star route: 20 points

Three star route: 30 points

Plus bonus points for completing all routes in a competition! (Bonus points may vary from event to event.)

 

Categories (less categories, more competition)

Open Mens

Open Womens

Youth Boys – 16 and under

Youth Girls – 16 and under

 

Prizes ($$$)

Cash prizes are contingent on number of participants in each category.

Cash breakdown: 60% goes to gym, 40% goes to prize pot

Prize pot breakdown:

1st place: 60% of prize pot

2nd place: 30% of prize pot

3rd place: 10% of prize pot

 

Ties (heartbreakers)

In the event of a tie in the qualifying events, all ties will move to finals. In the event of a tie in the finals, a tie-breaking super-finals boulder problem will be climbed – highest hold breaks the tie.

 

Event 3 (March 6): Competition Report

TOP RESULTS

Male Open

1. John Tarkington (425 pts)

2. Thomas Gardner, Adam Stackable, Ryan Villanueva (370 pts)

3. Duke Goulden (310 pts)

4. Jordan Wince (280 pts)

5. Tim Denton (230 pts)

Male Youth

1. Nicholas Strong (310 pts)

2. Colin Bost (210 pts)

3. Jacob Edgmon (80 pts)

Female Open

1. Cassidy Keiffer(130 pts)

2. Vanessa Sherk (110 pts)

3. Mariah Robbins (90 pts)

4. Natasha Sim (80 pts)

5. Anna Holdridge (60 pts)

Female Youth

1. Emily Cole (240 pts)

2. Elizabeth Turner (110 pts)

 

This was the third and final open-entry competition of the Four.Zero.Five Bouldering Series. From here the TOP FIVE point value earners from the three competitions combined will move on to FINALS on April 10th (see "Finalist" list above). Moving into finals everyone will start with a clean slate (zero score) and an equal chance to take one of the top three spots and a cash prize.

 

This was another really fun competition with a great turn-out. It sounded like everyone really enjoyed the problems. A few of the problems were set a bit harder for the point-value but that didn't seem to affect the climbers too much. We had some really high scores and for the first time we had a competitor complete all the boulders problems (20 total) and earn an additional 25 bonus points - way to go John Tarkington!

 

The following people will advance to Finals...

 

FINALIST

 

Male Open

1. John Tarkington

2. Thomas Gardner

3. Adam Stackable

4. Duke Goulden

5. Ryan Villanueva

Male Youth

1. Nicholas Strong

2. Colin Bost

3. Jacob Edgmon

4. Cooper Knight

Female Open

1. Mariah Robbins

2. Vanessa Sherk

3. Anna Holdridge

4. Christin Latham, Cassidy Keiffer (tied for points, both advance)

5. Natasha Sim

Female Youth

1. Emily Cole

2. Elizabeth Turner

3. Bibi Dang

 

Based on the number of entries from each category over the course of the three competitions, the prizes pots are anticipated/estimated to be as follows:

 

(Update 4/12/10: Actual prize amounts for a couple of the categories were slightly different due to actaulk number of competitors in the finals.)

 

Male Open

1st - $ 170

2nd -$ 85

3rd - $ 28

Female Open

1st - $ 43

2nd - $ 21

3rd - $ 7

Male Youth

1st - $ 28

2nd - $ 14

3rd - $ 5

Female Youth

1st - $ 26

2nd - $ 13

3rd - $ 4

 

Finals will be setup and scored slightly differently than the previous three competitions. Additional information about the scoring and the arrangements will be posted later.

 

Event 2 (Feb 20): Competition Report

TOP RESULTS

Male Open

(three-way tie for first, three-way tie for second, two-way tie for third)

1. John Tarkington, Thomas Gardner, Duke Goulden (360 pts)

2 Alex Kaiser, Adam Stackable, Ryan Villanueva (330 pts)

3. Jordan Wince, Michael Greene (300 pts)

4. Chris Yates (270 pts)

Male Youth

1. Nicholas Strong (220 pts)

2. Colin Bost (190 pts)

Female Open

1. Christin Latham (130 pts)

2. Mariah Robbins (110 pts)

3. Anna Holdridge (90 pts)

4. Ellen Stackable (60 pts)

Female Youth

1. Emily Cole (170 pts)

2. Bibi Dang (130 pts)

3. Elizabeth Turner (90 pts)

 

Click here for complete scores to date

 

Another great competition. We had 32 competitors again - some people didn't show who were in the first competition but we had some new faces in this second event. There were a total of 20 boulder problems and overall it appeared the majority of the problems were a bit more doable. All but one problem (the red route in the bouldering room) was done. And even the red route saw its fair share of quality attempts.

 

From a routesetting point of view, I feel like the problems offered more variety, more dynamic movement and were much more in keeping with the climbing abilities of the competitors - enough to challenge people but not fully shut everyone down.

 

There were some great sends in this competition - I saw people working problems multiple times to figure out sequences and eventually get them. That's so much cooler to watch than a flat-out onsight - it means you have to work at it. My feeling is that more bouldering competitions should be this way - that's the way it is when you going bouldering right?

 

Perhaps the best "unlocked" problem was the black-taped dyno in the belay room. It looked to be about an 8 foot leap - and would have been until Ryan figured out how to "mantle" the starting handhold and jump from it! It only took one ascent and the rest of the crew came running to try it. After that it was a send-train.

 

As we approach Event 3 the ties will become less and less. A limited number of people will make it into finals (Event 4) and that event should break down the ties to individual placements as the scoring will be slightly different.

 

A final note: it was mentioned during the competition that the Finals date would be rescheduled due to a conflict with another event. That date has been set at SATURDAY, APRIL 10 - mark your calendars.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Event 1 (Feb 6): Competition Report

TOP RESULTS

Male Open

(5-way tie for first)

1. John Tarkington, Duke Goulden, Tommy Gardner, Adam Stackable, Alex Kaiser (240 pts)

2. Ryan Villanueva (180 pts)

3. Jordan Wince (170 pts)

4. Timmy Denton, Justin Jackson, Keith Johnson (130 pts)

Male Youth

1. Nicholas Strong (150 pts)

2. Colin Bost (90 pts)

3. Cooper Knight (10 pts)

Female Open

1.Vanessa Sherk (60 pts)

2. Mariah Robbins (50 pts)

Female Youth

1. Emily Cole (80 pts)

2. Bibi Dang, Elizabeth Turner (60 pts)

 

Click here for complete scores to date

 

This was the inaugural event for the (Four.Zero.Five) Bouldering Series and the FIRST bouldering competition at the gym ever. Overall it went very well and we received positive feedback about the climbs and the competition. There were a total of 16 boulder problems scattered throughout the gym. Most of the problems saw ascents but there were a few that did not. There was a problem in the slab room (yellow route) that required using your feet on very slopey holds with no hands, which did not go. There was a super hard (probably V8 range) problem (black tape) in the bouldering room that followed a line of huge but very difficult holds that was not sent. Finally, there was another problem (purple & white tape) in the bouldering room that turned out to be much harder than expected due to a shut-down sloper move early on.

 

That said, the majority of the problems saw multiple ascents and everyone seemed to having a great time throwing themselves at their "projects" again and again. This was a "first" bouldering competition for a lot of climbers so it was great to see everyone getting into it and motivating each other.

 

We've learned some stuff from this first event which we will carry over to event two and make it even better. We received a couple of comments about some of the problems being reachy for the youngest kids - which we knew might be an issue since it was set primarily for the bigger kids and adults. We'll adjust the problems for the next event and have a few more "kid friendly" lines.

 

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Rocktown Climbing Gym
200 SE 4th Street
OKC, OK 73129

Rocktown, LLC
PO Box 643
OKC, OK 73101

405-319-1400 climb[at]rocktowngym.com

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